Once Upon a Road Trip in Germany

Germany’s sprawling transportation hubs—Frankfurt, Munich and Hamburg—capture travelers’ attention the moment their planes land or their cruise ships dock. But tempting as those big cities may be, with their world-class museums and Michelin-starred restaurants, it’s along the nation’s road-trip byways that a lesser-known side of Germany’s culture shines.

Dozens of themed routes crisscross the German countryside, some focused on half-timbered houses and medieval castles, others on snow-capped mountains and centuries-old folklore. Along the way, the routes lead past national parks, hiking trails and roadside markets, encouraging motorists to hop out and explore whenever the mood strikes.

The Fairytale Route

The German Fairytale Route twists and turns through a rolling landscape of villages and small hilltop castles on its 375-mile journey from Hanau, near Frankfurt, to Bremen. In this fertile countryside, the sun filters through morning mist that rises like steam from the Fulda and Weser Rivers. At dusk, its rays shine through spruce and birch forests, casting long shadows on country lanes and cobbled streets.

The stories collected in the 19th century by Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm—famously known as the Brothers Grimm—took root in this swath of Germany. Sleeping Beauty, Rapunzel, Cinderella, Little Red Riding Hood and another 200 or so fairy tales you have likely never heard of originated in the hillsides and villages of the German Fairytale Route. Hanau is the birthplace of the Brothers Grimm, where an imposing bronze monument fronting the town hall depicts the storybook superstars perusing an oversized book. In Hanau’s Philippsruhe Castle, a small interactive museum honors the Grimms with dress-up stations, life-size dioramas depicting fairy-tale scenes and a few historical artifacts. A stroll along Hanau’s Fairy Tale Path allows visitors to further immerse themselves in the stories and the environment from which they emerged. The path meanders among 11 sculptures of Puss in Boots, Little Red Riding Hood and the like, evoking the magic of the tales.

As the Fairytale Route wends its way north, roadside attractions lean heavily into individual legends, both fictional and real. A young woman said to have been imprisoned centuries ago in Trendelburg is remembered today at Rapunzel Tower. The story of Cinderella is recreated theatrically in the castle ruins of Polle each summer. The traditional red-capped attire of the small towns of Alsfeld and Schwalmstadt—once worn regularly, now worn by costumed interpreters—inspired the legend of Little Red Riding Hood. And the Pied Piper comes to life in Hamelin with city tours guided by the nefarious fifer himself.

The Castle Road

Mannheim is a fitting introduction to Germany’s Castle Road, a picturesque drive that snakes eastward 485 miles over the Rhine River, through the vineyard-covered slopes of the Neckar River, and alongside the peaks of the Thuringian Forest en route to Bayreuth. Mannheim’s Baroque palace ranks as one of Europe’s largest, boasting 15 acres of interior space. Walls are covered with 18th-century tapestries and frescoes, there’s a hidden library, and a stash of silver dinnerware and furniture sparkles behind ropes.

This is just one of more than 60 palaces—some intact, others crumbling—along the way, set atop dramatic overlooks, perched above cliff faces and occupying once-strategic riverways.

Among the Castle Road’s most popular stops is Heidelberg’s fortress. The sandstone castle was built between 1400 and 1600, its russet walls vibrantly contrasting with the deep-green banks of the Neckar. French troops destroyed portions of the complex in the late 17th century, but Heidelberg Castle still dominates the city and remains a highlight of German river cruises.

Nearly as well-liked is Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a town that owes its founding to Rothenburg Castle. The fortress was built in 970 to oversee traffic on the Tauber River but, over the centuries, was all but destroyed. A lovely castle garden remains, and the storybook charm of Rothenburg itself still captivates: its narrow cobbled alleys, its historic houses, its colorful window boxes and an intact 12th-century city wall.

The Castle Road continues east, eventually passing through Franconian Switzerland, a region so nicknamed by 19th-century poets for its mountainous landscape. You won’t find any snow-capped peaks or Swiss yodelers here, but there are plenty of rock pinnacles (some topped by small castle keeps) and cool mountain caves. Take a break from the drive with a stop at Teufelshöhle (Devil’s Cave) in Pottenstein. Tucked inside a massive rock grotto, this stalactite-filled cave is one of Germany’s largest.

In the once imperial town of Bamberg, narrow streets lead past an island in the Regnitz River that is occupied by more than 1,300 historically listed buildings. Relax over a glass of Schlenkerla Rauchbier, or smoked beer, a Bamberg tradition since at least 1400 and so named for the local practice of drying the malted barley over a wood fire, lending it a smoky flavor. From Bamberg, it’s a short drive to Coburg and its fortress of the same name. Set high above the landscape, Coburg Fortress was briefly home to Martin Luther and painter Lucas Cranach the Elder and houses a large collection of sculptures, paintings, glass and armor.

The ride ends in Bayreuth, just 40 miles from the Czech border, a city best known for its opera tradition. Bayreuth’s Margravial Opera House is widely considered the best-preserved Baroque theater in Europe, and the city has hosted a Wagner Festival nearly every year since 1876. But Bayreuth is also home to three castles, the grandest being the Eremitage. The vast castle complex, begun in the early 1700s, includes fountains, grottos and an exterior covered in a mosaic of tiny multicolored pebbles.

The Romantic Road

The original of Germany’s scenic byways, the Romantic Road was first conceived and marketed as a destination in 1950. But given the abundance of sightseeing must-sees along this route—medieval walled cities and aged castles, towering cathedral spires and snow-capped mountains—visitors have surely been traveling this stretch of Germany for much longer.

The 285-mile route begins in Würzburg, just southeast of Frankfurt, and meanders circuitously south to Füssen, near the Austrian border. Clearly signposted with brown Romantische Straße markers, it passes through 29 historic cities and villages, sweeps past Franconian wineries, and slows through tiny, centuries-old towns on its way to the Alps.

The towns of Rothenburg ob der Tauber (also part of Germany’s Castle Road) and nearby Dinkelsbühl—the latter unusual for having survived both World Wars unscathed, and, as a result, packed with original architecture—are both popular destinations along the Romantic Road. Augsburg, which was settled more than 2,000 years ago by the Romans, draws visitors with its 16th-century fountains and its ornate Baroque Schaezler Palace. And just outside the town of Steingaden, the humble-looking Wieskirche (Church of Weis) conceals behind its doors a rococo riot of ivory and gold leaf embellishments and pastel ceiling frescoes.

It’s worth taking a break as you near the Alps to step out of the car and into the fresh air of the German countryside. Near the base of the small peak called the Auerberg, forested footpaths lead upward. Through breaks in the trees, broad wildflower meadows and the Alps come into view. Eventually, you’ll reach the quaint, red-roofed chapel of St. George. Its church tower climb offers a still higher viewpoint, including a glimpse of Neuschwanstein Castle in the distance.

Reaching Neuschwanstein, near the town of Füssen, ranks as the overarching goal for many travelers along the Romantic Road. One of the world’s most recognized castles, Neuschwanstein benefits from its alpine backdrop, exterior of cream-colored stone and elegant spires. Walt Disney’s use of the palace as inspiration for his Cinderella Castle at Walt Disney World and Sleeping Beauty Castle at Disneyland surely added to its worldwide fame. Neuschwanstein is no less beautiful inside. Intent on designing a fairy-tale escape, Bavarian King Ludwig II decorated dining and throne rooms, bedrooms and salons with meticulously carved furniture, lush Oriental rugs and intricate frescoes depicting German myths and legends.

A visit to Neuschwanstein can easily be paired with a tour of nearby Hohenschwangau Castle, where young Ludwig II grew up. The castle is decorated with its own fairy-tale-themed paintings and tapestries, and it was likely where the prince fell in love with German folklore.

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Castles surrounded by the Alps. Medieval German villages and narrow cobbled streets. Sidewalk tables serving refreshments after a day of sightseeing. These are the great attractions of a road trip through Germany, whichever byway you choose to explore.