Why West Virginia Is More Than a Flyover State

The view from the airplane window fascinates me. That's why I always opt for a window seat. As a frequent flyer and geography nerd, I'm always trying to determine what towns and states I'm flying over without the help of the seatback screen. I'm always curious about who lives in the areas I'm flying over and what I'm missing out on in the region below.

As Americans, we constantly traverse the country by plane but seldom get to explore those under-the-radar areas in the so-called "flyover states." I’ve often wondered: What would an adventure be like in one of these more remote areas? What was I foregoing by flying?

A plane soars over a flyover state; iStock

Mostly sticking to interstates, I’ve seldom driven through West Virginia but have flown over the Mountain State more times than I can count. In the times I have driven through, my goal was to get through the state as quickly as possible. I've gotten good at picking out the rippled Appalachian Mountains and the Cheat and Kanawha River Valleys from a plane window, even with a decent layer of clouds separating the plane from the earth.

Despite having numerous ski resorts and the nation’s newest national park (New River Gorge National Park & Preserve), West Virginia doesn’t typically top the list of vacation destinations. This convinced me that there had to be something we've all been missing. Luckily, AAA member Erica Metzner and her husband, Loren, were happy to let me in on one of West Virginia's best-kept secrets.

The calming view from the Metzners' backyard outside Morgantown, West Virginia; photo by Ben Young

WELCOME TO WEST VIRGINIA

Erica and her family live just outside Morgantown, West Virginia, a little more than an hour south of Pittsburgh. The drive to their property is scenic. Upon arriving, I'm quick to share how picturesque the early morning drive was. Even though Erica has routinely taken the exact same route over Cheat Lake and through the mountains on winding, narrow roads, she still finds it beautiful.

“I don’t think there’s a bad drive in West Virginia,” she says.

With their baby, Loren and Erica Metzner take in the view from their dock; photo by Boston Heath

As we tour their lakeside oasis—what feels like an oversized cottage with plenty of porches and decks that offer serene views of the lake—Loren straps their seven-month-old son into a baby carrier to join us for the walk along the lake. Their son has grown accustomed to this place, taking his first snowshoe adventure with his parents within two weeks of birth. Their backyard is full of kayaks and outdoor equipment—all of which he will get to experience as he grows up.

“It’s important for us to help him learn how nature grounds you and how calming it can be. That’s why we’re just outside every day with him,” says Erica. “I think he's just going to have such a cool childhood. He will be able to roam, and we'll tell him, 'When the sun goes past that mountain, you need to be home.'"

The Metzners enjoy the view from Coopers Rock with their seven-month-old son; photo by Boston Heath

After we take in the view from their dock, it's back to the car to head to one of Erica's favorite overlooks outside Morgantown: Coopers Rock. Located in Coopers Rock State Forest, the overlook boasts a panoramic view of the Cheat River Gorge from high atop a series of sandstone cliffs. Only a few miles off of I-68 and one of the most visited attractions in West Virginia, the overlook and its adjacent parking lot are unexpectedly quiet, so quiet we can hear the wind whisper through the never-ending canopy of green trees that blankets the mountains. The forest is home to more than 50 miles of hiking trails and sandstone cliffs, perfect for climbing. While we take in the view, Loren heads off onto a trail for a quick run, which he describes as one of the most relaxing things he can do after a long day of working at a nearby hospital.

Erica and her seven-month-old son play in the lobby of her studio: & Yoga; photo by Boston Heath

BUILDING A COMMUNITY IN MORGANTOWN

Having lived in big cities like Detroit and Houston most of her life, Erica moved to Morgantown to live with her husband, a West Virginia native. She was eager to embrace the small city's community since finding one in a large metropolitan area was challenging.

“In Morgantown, there’s [West Virginia University] and the biggest hospital in the state. A lot of people were coming here and leaving and deciding Morgantown wasn’t their thing,” she says. “It made me really sad because I feel like people don't stay in places because they don't know people. I felt like this area was starving for community, and I kept looking for a place to find my people. I thought maybe it was my job to help create that."

Enter Erica's yoga studio: & Yoga.

“We opened up '& Yoga' with the intention that people can do yoga, find community, and be with other people. It's called '& Yoga' for all the other things we're doing in the community—and yoga," says Erica.

Located in a bustling retail section of Morgantown, & Yoga attracts individuals of all ages and from walks of life, I observed as a small group joined Erica for a yoga class at the studio. She was right: She had built a thriving community in the three years since the studio’s opening. After class, the group stayed behind the studio lobby, casually catching up about their lives, each eager to hold Erica’s son.

“It’s really important for us to raise our family with [the resource of community],” she says. “Our community here is truly what it feels like to be West Virginian.”

The Metzner family strolls down Front Street in Thomas, West Virginia; photo by Boston Heath

THOMAS, THE QUINTESSENTIAL SMALL TOWN

The next day, we hit the road to explore Tucker County, West Virginia, one of the state's most remote counties, tucked roughly 90 minutes south of Morgantown. The drive there is full of hairpin turns, scenic mountain rivers, and small towns, and it sticks mostly to state routes.

Our first stop is Thomas, a small town that sits along the north fork of the Blackwater River. Faced with rebuilding after a devastating fire and tornado over the past century, the town fashioned its main stretch of Front Street to reflect the architecture and culture of Europe, with balconies, porches, and window boxes making the intimate business district incredibly inviting. Today, the thriving business district seems undiscovered, with only a few tourists milling about. After passing by antique shops, galleries, and restaurants, we settle on having lunch at Picnic.

The Metzner family enjoys drinks and treats from Tip Top in Thomas, WV; photo by Boston Heath

Picnic started as a roadside food counter during the COVID-19 pandemic, serving a small and varied Caribbean and Tex–Mex menu. The restaurant has expanded to a large patio and casual indoor dining room with tacos, bowls, quesadillas, and plenty of local beer options. During lunch, Loren shares with tourists dining at Picnic some of his favorite places to visit throughout Tucker County, including some of the area's public fire towers that offer spectacular views.

With a full afternoon of hiking planned, we fuel up with some essential caffeine. Before leaving Thomas, we visit TipTop, a trendy café with an abundance of unexpected modern charm. With plenty of coffee options, pastries, charcuterie choices, and some excellent road trip snack selections, we depart feeling recharged and prepared to explore nearby Blackwater Falls State Park.

The panoramic view from Lindy Point; iStock

THE SIGHTS AND SOUNDS OF BLACKWATER FALLS

A short drive from Thomas leads us to the Blackwater Falls State Park entrance and past the massive lodge with magnificent views of the Blackwater River Valley. With the car windows down, we could hear the echo of the waterfall as it ricocheted through the valley. A drive down a narrow road under a tall covering of trees takes us to the entrance of the Lindy Point trail. With room for only four cars in the small parking lot, the remote trail of less than a mile points us toward the Blackwater Canyon, offering views from 1,000 feet above the gorge from atop a small wooden platform.

Erica and her son enjoy the sights and sounds from the Blackwater Falls Overlook; photo by Boston Heath

After the short hike back to our cars, it’s off to see the state park’s main attraction: Blackwater Falls. While only a quarter-mile walk from the parking lot, the descent to the observation deck next to the falls consists of more than 200 stone and wooden steps. As we maneuver the steps, the falls roar as amber-colored water cascades down the five-story drop.

We snap a few photos of the falls and stop at the trading post before going our separate ways. I thank Erica and Loren for their tour of the more remote parts of West Virginia, and I was expressing my gratitude for the sights I'd seen and the people I'd met along the way.

Blackwater Falls near Davis, West Virginia; iStock

THE FINAL VIEW

After seeing the views at Blackwater Falls State Park, I return to the park to catch a sunset over the majestic gorge. Let's be honest: I wanted what I knew would be an amazing Instagram photo. After a short walk to a cliff overlooking the Blackwater River gorge from the Pendleton Point Overlook, I find a seat on a jagged rock and gaze out at the distant river cutting its way through the forest-covered mountains.

As I sit watching the setting sun hide behind an increasing cloud deck, it strikes me: It wasn’t so much the beautiful landscapes and activities I always felt like I was missing from the plane window; rather, it was the people and their sense of community and unique culture.

The sunset from Pendleton Point Overlook in Blackwater Falls State Park; photo by Ben Young

Thinking back about a chat during the trip, I remember Erica saying, “This place is home, and we are lifers. I think we're a state that gets forgotten about, but I feel so proud to be a West Virginian. I appreciate the beauty and don't take it for granted. The people and being in the culture [are things] that you don’t get from a picture."

Indeed, there’s only so much you can see from a plane window.