48 Hours in Edinburgh
From royal castles to cobblestone strolls to Scotch tastings, here’s how to explore the best of Scotland’s legendary capital
Rich in history, culture, and character, Edinburgh offers far more than a quick stop on your UK itinerary or European tour. From the moment you arrive, you’re met with a rare juxtaposition of architectural contrasts layered across the skyline. In the city’s Old Town, winding cobblestone streets weave between towering medieval spires and stone buildings, while the New Town offers elegant symmetry, punctuated by neoclassical mansions and leafy garden squares.
Beyond this achitectural eye candy is a compact city with a wide reach—best explored with curiosity and comfortable shoes. If you have only two days in Edinburgh, here’s how to experience its most iconic sites, sounds, and tastes.
Day 1
Begin by exploring the area that Edinburgh is most famous for: the Royal Mile in Old Town. (This area is also where you’ll want to book your hotel stay for convenient access to Royal Mile attractions.) Though technically 1.13 miles long, this historic stretch has been the center of government and commerce for centuries, linking Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse.
Start your tour at the top of the Royal Mile with a timed entry to Edinburgh Castle, Scotland’s most iconic fortress, perched dramatically atop Castle Rock. Within its ancient walls are the Crown Jewels and the historic Great Hall—all part of a castle complex where Scottish royalty once lived and entertained. Don’t miss St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh’s oldest-surviving building, built by King David I around 1130. If you’re still at the castle at 1 p.m., pause to watch the One o’Clock Gun—fired daily (except on Sundays, Good Friday, and Christmas Day) from a field gun at the Mills Mount Battery—a tradition that dates to 1861.
Once you’ve had your fill of royal history, head to Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar for lunch. Treat yourself to a hearty Scottish dish—perhaps haggis, neeps and tatties (a savory pudding made with sheep organs with mashed turnips and potatoes); cullen skink (a creamy smoked haddock soup); or a classic ale pie. Before you leave, visit the statue of Greyfriers Bobby just outside. This loyal Skye terrier from the 19th century is said to have guarded his owner’s grave for 14 years, and he remains one of Edinburgh’s most cherished legends.
Back on the Royal Mile, spend some time perusing the local shops for quintessential Scottish keepsakes, such as tartan and tweed goods. Be sure to pop into the Tron Kirk Market, a former church now home to more than 20 Scottish artists and designers, for a handcrafted treasure.
As you continue your stroll, take a slight detour down Victoria Street, a curved, multilevel thoroughfare with rainbow-hued storefronts. Widely considered one of the world’s most photogenic streets, it’s often compared with Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter novels.
If royal history intrigues you more than retail therapy, skip the shops and make your way to the Palace of Holyroodhouse—the King’s official residence in Scotland and a site steeped in centuries of intrigue, from Mary, Queen of Scots to the modern monarchy. (Reservations for timed-entry tickets are required).
After a day of walking, enjoy dinner at The Outsider, a stylish yet unpretentious spot known for seasonal dishes and sweeping views. You may even score a seat with a view of the castle you toured earlier.
Day 2
Today, make your focus Edinburgh’s New Town. Just don’t let the name fool you; some of its buildings date back to 1767.
Make your main route Princes Street, and start your stroll near the Lothian Road intersection. As you head east, you’ll appreciate just how high Edinburgh Castle sits above the rest of the city.
Take some time to walk through the lush Princes Street Gardens. It’s hard to imagine now, but this beautiful green space was once the site of Nor’ Loch, a man-made body of water originally created for defense. Over time, it also became a dumping ground for waste from the Royal Mile above (hence, perhaps, the gardens’ remarkable fertility).
Eventually, you’ll find yourself at the National Galleries of Scotland. Go inside to see some of the country’s most impressive works of art. Don’t miss Edinburgh Castle and the Nor' Loch for a striking glimpse of what the castle looked like 200 years ago, when the now-lush Princes Street Gardens were still a dark, water-filled loch.
While exploring this area, you’ll pass by the Gothic-inspired Scott Monument, which honors Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott. It’s adorned with more than 60 figures representing characters from his novels. Walk just a bit farther to grab lunch at Society Bar & Kitchen, a cozy spot overlooking Princes Street.
In the afternoon—especially if the weather is nice—take a taxi or rideshare to Dean Village, one of the city’s most charming areas. Enjoy a relaxing walk along the Water of Leith to Deans Brae Bridge, passing by some of the city’s most picturesque homes. This is the storybook side of Edinburgh that many tourists miss.
If you’d like to sample some of the whisky culture that Scotland is famous for, head back up to Old Town for The Scotch Whisky Experience. The tour delves into Scotland’s different whisky regions, and, of course, you’ll get to try a few drams.
To continue soaking up the pub culture, stop into any inviting Scottish pub. Along with stellar Scotch, the local ciders and beers are excellent. The best part of the pub experience, however, is simply chatting with the locals.
For your last meal in Edinburgh, enjoy dinner at Avery Restaurant, where Scottish cuisine is given an elevated twist. Or, lean into the Scottish way by grabbing a bite at whichever pub you’ve settled into—a fitting end to two days well spent in one of Europe’s most captivating cities.