48 Hours in Halifax, Nova Scotia
Where to eat, drink, and explore in this charming coastal capital in Canada
Halifax may be one of Canada’s smaller capital cities, but this seaside gem in Nova Scotia has plenty to offer travelers looking for a relaxed, laid-back escape where locals are known for their warm hospitality. Here’s how to make the most of a getaway in Halifax.
Day 1
Book a hotel along the Halifax Waterfront, where salty sea breezes mingle with the scent of fresh lobster, historic schooners glide past your window, and the lively boardwalk hums with the energy of buskers, cafés, and maritime charm.
For a stand-out stay, check in to the luxurious the Westin Nova Scotian, a grand heritage hotel with nearly a century of history as part of Canada’s iconic railway hotel legacy. From your hotel, meander along the waterfront boardwalk, a pedestrian-friendly stretch spanning about 2.5 miles. It’s one of the top Halifax attractions, boasting stunning views of the Halifax Harbour, local markets, independent shops, and a waterfront beer garden.
Consider stopping for a sweet treat at Peace by Chocolate, a beloved local shop founded by the Hadhad family, Syrian refugees who rebuilt their chocolate business in Nova Scotia. Along with handcrafted artisanal chocolates such as pomegranate-infused dark chocolate and honey-almond bars, the shop supports refugee programs and humanitarian efforts—a true story of resilience, community, and cultural fusion.
Continue along the boardwalk to catch the ferry to Georges Island, a tiny glacial drumlin nestled in the middle of the harbor. The island is a National Historic Site of Canada, featuring fortifications, underground tunnels, and panoramic views of the Halifax skyline and harbor.
While on the island, join a tour of Fort Charlotte, part of the Halifax Defence Complex from the mid-18th century to the Second World War and holds much local lore. Or, simply enjoy the island’s peaceful nature and its unobstructed views of the Halifax skyline.
Refueled and ready to go, pay a visit to the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia. This compact museum and gallery is a great showcase of local Nova Scotian art, both past and present, with more than 19,000 pieces in its collection.
The most noteworthy exhibit is the Maud Lewis house. The cherished Nova Scotian folk artist lived most of her life in poverty, only achieving national recognition in 1965—just five years before her death. The gallery holds Lewis’ restored tiny house, where visitors can step inside to see how she spent her days painting and living a simple life.
Head back down to the boardwalk to enjoy dinner at The Bicycle Thief. This waterfront Italian restaurant is one of the most well-loved in the city—and for good reason. Here, you’ll find beautiful examples of modern Italian cuisine with a maritime twist (as well as incredibly fresh seafood at the heart). Don’t miss the pan-seared Digby scallops.
Day 2
Start the day with a light breakfast at the Wired Monk Coffee Bistro—which has some of the best cinnamon buns and iced Americanos in the city—before hopping aboard a Halifax Transit ferry to explore Dartmouth, the lively waterfront community just across Halifax Harbour. For a scenic approach, take the Woodside Ferry (operating Monday through Friday only), and follow the Dartmouth Harbourfront Trail, a mostly flat walking path that winds past marinas and parks. The 30-minute walk leads you to Portland Street, where local cafes and shops await. (Alternatively, you could skip the walk and take the Alderney Ferry directly to Downtown Dartmouth.)
Tuck into lunch at The Canteen on Portland, a decadent but unpretentious restaurant with some of the best modern seafood dishes in the city. If you’re lucky, the scallop burger or the “crobster roll” (packed with snow crab and lobster) will be on the menu, but you can’t go wrong with any of Chef Renée Lavallée’s creations. It’s worth noting that The Canteen also boasts a rotating selection of Nova Scotian beer and wine by the glass, should you feel like sampling some of the local flavors.
Back on the Halifax side, dive into more Haligonian history at the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site. Built by the English in 1856, this fortified hilltop structure was used to watch over the harbor and served as army barracks during the First and Second World Wars. Don’t be surprised if you hear the cannons boom at noon; it’s a symbolic part of the fort’s history.
Afterward, tuck into dinner at Highwayman, a Spanish-inspired tapas restaurant known for its creative small-plate dishes using exclusively locally sourced ingredients. Alternatively, opt for one of the dozens of Thai restaurants in the city; Halifax has become a culinary haven for Thai cuisine over the past few years, with one of the best being Cha Baa Thai.
If you’ve got stamina to spare after dinner, end the night by exploring Halifax’s vibrant bar scene. The city is often said to have the most bars per capita in Canada, and its nightlife is truly impressive for a smaller Canadian city. Bars such as The Old Triangle Irish Ale House and Durty Nelly’s are great spots to enjoy a pint while listening to live traditional music.
Before returning to your hotel, stop for a late-night donair (the official meal of the city). The famous Haligonian street food snack has its roots in Greece and features spiced ground beef, onions, tomatoes, and sweet donair sauce all wrapped into a soft pita—a delicious ending to your time in Halifax.