48 Hours in Palm Springs

When it comes to glam, Palm Springs is the crowning jewel of the Coachella Valley’s nine desert cities. Flanked by the rugged San Jacinto Mountains and the otherworldly landscapes of Joshua Tree National Park, nearby cities such as Rancho Mirage and Palm Desert have their own charm—but only Palm Springs was the preferred playground of Hollywood’s elite during the Golden Age of cinema.

Located just 109 miles east of Los Angeles, this sun-drenched oasis became a haven for marquee headliners, which explains why the streets boast names such as Frank Sinatra Drive and Kirk Douglas Way.

Despite its A-list legacy, the city retains an intimate, village-like vibe. It’s equally world-famous for its striking desert modernism, home to architectural gems crafted by visionaries such as Albert Frey, John Lautner, and Richard Neutra. Design lovers from around the world flock here for Modernism Week, held each February, with a smaller fall preview in October.

Whether you're a history buff, an architecture aficionado, or a sun-seeker in search of a stylish escape, Palm Springs is an iconic desert retreat in which to spend 48 hours.

Day 1

Plan to stay at the stylish Thompson Palm Springs by Hyatt, the newest—and largest—art-inspired hotel in the downtown Palm Springs Design District, featuring 168 bungalow-inspired rooms. Located right on Palm Canyon Drive—think Ocean Avenue in Miami—this is the heart of the action, with buzzing boutiques, bars, and restaurants just steps away. For a little extra privacy, book a room in Upper Stories, the hotel’s adults-only wing, which comes with its own exclusive pool.

The Coachella Valley is naturally gorgeous—a rich landscape of palm trees, golf greens, crystal blue skies, and awe-inspiring mountain peaks. For the best bird’s-eye view, hop aboard the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. Step into the rotating gondola, which climbs 2.5 miles up to an elevation of 8,516 feet, where arid desert terrain gives way to a cool alpine forest, often at least 30 degrees cooler than the valley floor. Hikers come here in summer to escape the heat, and in winter, snowshoers take to the trails at the summit. Be sure to step out onto the terraces for sweeping views that stretch across all nine desert cities on a clear day.

If you prefer your tours with a splash of sass, hop aboard Anita Doll’s Drag & Fly Tours, a 90-minute adventure hosted by the fabulous drag queen on her decked-out 13-passenger theater-on-wheels. Expect sharp, hilarious, and informative commentary that celebrates Old Hollywood glamour, landmark architecture, and unapologetic queer pride.

If it’s Thursday, don’t miss Village Fest, when Palm Canyon Drive transforms into a lively street fair. Around 180 vendors take over the main street of downtown Palm Springs with local art, food, crafts, and live entertainment. It’s a true party. Pair your stroll with a stop at Tonga Hut, a fab sister to the original circa-1958 tiki bar in Los Angeles. Retro rules here; the potent mai tai hits just right alongside a soundtrack of surfer rock and island vibes. 

End your evening with dinner at Lola Rose Grande Mezze, which spotlights a bright array of Mediterranean flavors curated by local chef Quentin Garcia. After more than a decade working in Michelin-starred restaurants from Copenhagen to Costa Mesa, Garcia has returned home, and his fine-dining chops shine in an elevated mezze feast (think refined takes on tahdig, both traditional and inventive).

Day 2

Start your morning with an early stroll and an ethereal pastry at Cravings Coffee & Pastries, where owner Raphael Benomar splits his time between styling hair on one side of the space and crafting impossibly flaky croissants and French pastries on the other.

Next, visit the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum to explore the rich history of the native people—the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians—who have called Greater Palm Springs home for centuries. The tribe’s origin story unfolds through powerful photo- and artifact-driven exhibits that gracefully bridge past and present.

For some well-deserved pampering, walk across the art-filled plaza to The Spa at Séc-he—“séc-he” means “mineral spring” in the Cahuilla language. Soak in ancient healing waters, unwind in a halotherapy salt cave, and detox with a rejuvenating quartz cupping massage. 

For lunch, head to the Palm Springs Art Museum, a mid-century modern gem designed by E. Stewart Williams, and grab a table at LIVS, the on-site restaurant by local chef Gabriel Woo. Named after his daughter Olivia, the restaurant features a flavor-forward menu of sandwiches, salads, and craft cocktails that consistently exceed expectations. How can a tuna melt taste that good? Have lunch on the gorgeous patio, and then wander through the museum’s impressive contemporary galleries that include an eye-catching collection of modern glass sculptures. Don’t miss Anthony James’ trippy Great Rhombicosidodecahedron, a mirrored light sphere in the entrance that feels like a portal to another dimension.

For happy hour in downtown Palm Springs, step into Lulu California Bistro, where the lively outdoor patio and buzzing bar scene are known for strong pours and prime people-watching.

For dinner, enjoy chef/ owner Sev Nazarian’s artisanal take on classic Persian cuisine at the supremely welcoming Saffron Restaurant & Lounge. From perfectly grilled kababs to zereshk polo—buttery rice layered with roast chicken, turmeric, and saffron, with barberries adding a touch of tartness—soulful flavors and warm hospitality define this spot.

Wrap up your Palm Springs adventure with a leisurely stroll back to your hotel. A nightcap on the Lola Rose patio, nestled close to the mountains and beneath a blanket of stars, is the perfect ending to your desert escape.