Finding Wonder in a Colorado Winter

Colorado’s famed ski towns are reason enough to visit the Centennial State in winter, but not the only reason. The state has a multitude of places and activities where singles, couples and families can embrace all the season has to offer—often at minimal cost.

National park adventures

The short trail to Dream Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park is jam-packed in summer. But when winter wraps Colorado in snow, snowshoers and hikers can immerse themselves in the quiet grandeur of the park. The season typically includes March and April, too, which are historically Colorado’s two snowiest months. The snow in early spring often comes with (somewhat) warmer days. Whenever you visit, odds are good you’ll catch one of Colorado’s 300 days of sun.

On just such a blue-sky day in March, I strapped on snowshoes and headed with friends from Bear Lake Trailhead to Dream Lake. It’s just a 2.2-mile roundtrip trek, but the route is a visual celebration of the park’s grand and varied landscapes. It skirts meadows and streams and winds through Aspen groves and forests of Ponderosa pine, their branches bent under fat dollops of snow. Nymph Lake lies at the half-mile mark, and one high point reveals a striking panorama of Glacier Gorge, the Continental Divide dominating the horizon above it.

We occasionally passed other snowshoers and hikers. Even though we weren’t alone on the trail, at times, distanced from my friends, I found myself a speck in the infinite whiteness, no other human in sight, with space to revel in the majesty of the park still cloaked in winter.

From its start at 9,475 feet, the trail is a gentle climb culminating in an elevation gain of just 430 feet. Even novice snowshoers can tackle it, but those still adjusting to Colorado altitude should wait until they’re acclimated. The reward at Dream Lake is a pine-cradled frozen expanse with 12,720-foot Hallett Peak rising beyond it.

From there, some snowshoers continue west along the north shore of Tyndall Creek and on to Emerald Lake, adding another 1.4 miles to the roundtrip walk. But we headed back that day, satisfied with our adventure.

Embracing winter in the park doesn’t require snowshoes or even much of a walk. One chilly November day a few years ago, my daughter and I packed up her daughters, then ages 7 and 2, and headed into the park to meander along the Beaver Ponds Boardwalk, where there wasn’t much snow yet.

Although lacking the lush, buzzy activity of summer, winter boardwalks always yield something interesting for children to examine, not to mention views and photo ops. Rocky Mountain National Park has two boardwalks easily accessed from roads: Beaver Ponds and Sprague Lake. Remember to dress in lots of layers and bring water; even short walks at altitude require hydration.

A good add-on for any adventure in the national park is a bite to eat in Estes Park. My faves: The Post Mountain House for fried chicken and Brunch & Co. for a deliciously indulgent breakfast or lunch. Both are on the grounds of The Stanley Hotel, where an overnight stay in (possibly haunted) room 217 inspired Stephen King to write The Shining. Or just meander around town. Sooner or later, you’ll come across elk, Estes Park’s ubiquitous four-footed locals. Take a photo but keep your distance.

Soaking it all in

One of Colorado’s sublime winter luxuries is soaking in a hot-springs pool under a pale winter moon and bright stars. You’ll find springs left largely in their natural state and springs that have been corralled into formal pools, often with lodging adjacent.

My favorite is still the first one I experienced decades ago, 7 miles from downtown Steamboat. We snowshoed in from the main road and there were few amenities, but it didn’t matter. The magic of the place was in sinking into steaming, rock-rimmed pools on a moonlit winter night, enveloped in the profound quiet of Routt National Forest. Now known as Strawberry Park Natural Hot Springs, amenities include changing rooms, several rustic cabins and massages (booked in advance). The park is open to all during the day but becomes adult-only, clothing optional at night. Reservations are required.

From November to May only four-wheel drive vehicles with snow tires or chains can access the park, but shuttles are available from town. Reservations are required.

Those who prefer the comforts of a hot-springs resort have lots of choices, some with lodging.

Durango Hot Springs Resort & Spa sits on the site of historic springs 15 minutes from the town of Durango. Following a complete rebuild, with more amenities and additions to come in the future, the resort features 32 mineral pools, a swimming pool, spa and dining. The resort partners with nearby lodging.

Billed as the world’s largest hot springs pool, the historic Grand Pool at Glenwood Hot Springs Resort in Glenwood Springs opened in 1888, hailed as a “healing wonder.” It’s typically more active than serene but the waters still heal and soothe while slides add fun. Lodging and an athletic club are also available, as is casual dining.

Nearby, Iron Mountain Hot Springs sits on a high bank overlooking the Colorado River. Recently expanded, it has 32 separate pools, including some inspired by the healing and mineral content of famous hot springs around the globe. The newest area is for adults only. Reservations are required. There are numerous hotels in Glenwood Springs.

Tubing

Sometimes, winter is all about exhilarating, cool-for-all-ages fun. For many generations of Coloradans that means one thing: Awkwardly wrestling a humongous tire tube over the crest of a hill for an all-too-short thrill of sliding more or less out of control to the bottom. You might go forward or backward, bounce or spin. Maybe some tubing aficionados can control that, but I’m happy to take it as it comes. However the ride goes, it’s practically guaranteed to make you smile.

Fraser Tubing Hill, opened in 1971 and still family run, is the go-to for many Colorado families. Lots of the state’s ski areas and privately run resorts also have tubing, including Winter Park, Keystone, Steamboat and Purgatory Resort. At Frisco Adventure Park in Frisco, tubing is just one activity. There’s also sledding, sleigh riding and more.

. . . . .

At its heart, Colorado in winter is about capturing the wonder, joy and beauty of the season and finding your special place in it. Set against the grandest of landscapes and nature’s immutable presence, even a simple walk is cast with magic.