Traveling the Rocky Mountaineer Through the Heart of the Rockies
Experience waterfalls, wildlife, Indigenous traditions, and breathtaking scenery on Canada’s most legendary rail adventure
When was the last time that you took notice of a tree and felt thankful for the oxygen that it provides? When you sip from a bottle of water, do you wonder about the spring that it came from? Or better yet, do you contemplate how that spring was even formed and how long it has been on earth?
A refreshing start
My journey started in beautiful Vancouver, British Columbia. Despite having a population of about 700,000, Vancouver maintains a calming and peaceful vibe that might be due to its being surrounded by mountains and water.
While there, I stayed at the Fairmont Waterfront located on the harbor. From my room, I could see boats and seaplanes floating atop the clear blue waters, with teases of mountaintops in the distance.
After traveling for hours, I took a moment when I arrived to enjoy the scenery as I sipped a refreshing cocktail made with Fairmont’s very own “Waterfront Gin.” My cocktail was garnished with fresh herbs and fruit directly from the hotel’s rooftop garden. Later, at dinner that night at the Fairmont ARC restaurant, I slurped down sweet local oysters shucked right in front of me.
The sound meditation class I took the following morning at the hotel had me considering if I should prepare for most days doing some gentle stretching while listening to peaceful sound-bathing audio.
Later that afternoon, I made my way to the stunning 1,000-acre Stanley Park for a horse-drawn carriage tour that took me past many of the park’s gems, including its collection of First Nation totem poles, Lions Gate Bridge and the Girl in a Wetsuit bronze sculpture.
A breath of fresh air
After two relaxing nights in Vancouver, it was time for my departure on Rocky Mountaineer’s Journey Through the Clouds excursion, which travels from Vancouver to Jasper, Alberta, with an overnight in Kamloops, British Columbia. Train rides are one of my absolute favorite ways to travel. Still, I wasn’t prepared for two full days of marveling at lakes, waterfalls, valleys and, of course, mountains—all from the comfort of my GoldLeaf class seat with its full glass dome affording panoramic views. I was even lucky enough to spot eagles and mountain goats.
Knowledgeable hosts in each train car regale guests with the history of the route and point out natural wonders such as Pyramid Falls, a 300-foot-tall waterfall that cascades in a stunning pyramid shape as it descends from a hanging valley above the North Thompson River. It’s visible only from the railway, and if you are lucky enough, you may feel a light mist as you view it from the outside deck.
Another standout sight was Hell’s Gate in Fraser Canyon. Early 19th-century explorer Simon Fraser bestowed the intimidating moniker on it because of the way the wide Fraser River abruptly narrows between towering rock walls. Even from the safety of the train, the rugged landscape surrounding the daunting waters was spine-chilling.
As I took it all in, my thoughts turned to those who were brave enough to build the train route through the untamed wilderness of the Rocky Mountains. Beginning in the 1880s, Chinese and European laborers played a significant role in building some of the most difficult sections in the west. Chinese laborers were paid only $1 a day—up to $1.50 less than white laborers—and were known for taking on the most dangerous tasks, such as handling explosives to clear rocks and barriers. Many died from malnutrition, illnesses and accidents. Learning about the railroad workers’ bravery and sacrifice made me feel fortunate to travel these rail lines, and I silently acknowledged the lives of those who made it possible.
Gourmet meals
Mealtimes onboard bring delicious gourmet offerings (a potato and sausage egg skillet for one breakfast, a comforting gnocchi and vegetable dish for a lunch) made with fresh local ingredients. Beverages and snacks throughout the day kept us happily sated. It was onboard that I had my first Caesar, Canada’s national cocktail. Similar to a Bloody Mary, this savory delight offered an expert blend of tomato and clam juices, Worcestershire sauce and vodka, and featured a tasty rim of spices.
A natural passion
My adventures didn’t end with my train ride, as I extended my trip to include three days at Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge and Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. My goodness! The mountain formations were unreal—if I didn’t feel the cool outdoor air, I could have convinced myself that I was staring at computer-generated images. I just kept asking myself “how?” as in, “how can something so complex and jaw-dropping form naturally?”
I joined a bus tour of the town of Jasper and Jasper National Park, still recovering from the wildfires of July 2024 that forced the evacuation of residents and tourists. About one-third of the buildings in Jasper burned down, and some 80,000 acres of land were consumed. It was heartbreaking to witness a bear walking among the blackened trees. Some of the homes in Jasper were so damaged that only the foundations were left. The town is open and welcoming tourists even as homes and businesses continue to be rebuilt.
One of my most cherished moments while in Jasper National Park was taking a plant walk and learning about Indigenous medicinal and nutritional uses for plants from Matricia Bauer, who leads tours through her company Warrior Women.
Later that night after a comforting family-style dinner at the Fairmont Jasper, a group of us from the tour sat around the fire as Bauer shared stories about Cree culture and the connection of humanity to the stars and earth. We followed suit by sharing some personal stories of our own, finding a renewed camaraderie with each other and the world around us.
A new and grounded perspective
Back home, the grass seems a bit greener, the skies a bit bluer. I appreciate the earth more, and all that it provides to us. I also appreciate the people who have paved the way to make life more habitable, while still trying to maintain the natural beauties of Mother Earth. I recognize that it’s our duty to return nature’s gifts by maintaining a harmonious life with our planet.