Discovering Wallet-Friendly, Wonderfully Wild Tucker County, West Virginia

I stood with my husband, Josh, and peered down at the deep swath of green forest in Blackwater Canyon. We had reached Lindy Point, one of the most photographed spots in not just Blackwater Falls State Park, but all of West Virginia, just in time to watch the sky turn coral over the sandstone cliffs, giving the tiny pink teacups of mountain laurel and the wide, waxy leaves of rhododendron along the trail behind us a rose-gold glow. It almost felt like we were in heaven.

That’s the state’s tourism motto: “Almost Heaven.” And there near the ledge, we agreed: having grown up in neighboring Ohio, it was a shame it had taken us until we’d moved to Utah to explore the natural playground that is West Virginia, where more than 75 percent of the state is covered in forest and waterfalls and outdoor adventure opportunities abound. But thanks to constant confirmation from West Virginia-based family about the depth and breadth of the beauty of the state, we’d finally made the time.

Besides, we’d been craving a getaway where we could relax, enjoy time outdoors, and peruse galleries, consume good food and better music, and simply be. No neon signs or endless entertainment options vying for our attention, just nature and rest. We were delighted to discover that’s exactly what Tucker County offers: nature, small towns and a slow pace. The best part? It’s a great place to explore on a budget.

Hiking, biking and waterfalls 

Upon arrival, we downloaded the West Virginia Waterfall Trail app to map out nearby cascades and track how many we could check off during our four-day stay. There are 43 scattered all over the state. We shrugged; the handful in Tucker County would have to do. We started at Blackwater Falls State Park (all West Virginia state parks are free to visit) and the namesake 57-foot -high falls that are tinted yellow by tannins in the leaves and needles shed by the hemlock and red spruce trees bordering the Blackwater River. It’s the same golden-brown hue of the other falls in the park, including Elakala and Pendleton.

We snapped photos of the falls, then a few selfies at the “Almost Heaven” swing at the top of the boardwalk, one of more than 30 oversized wooden swings peppered around the state at picturesque sites. A large wooden cutout of West Virginia in front of each features a ledge for selfie-takers to place their phones.

Knowing we also wouldn’t be checking off every swing in the state, we focused on exploring area trails, starting with a 9-mile loop in the biodiverse Dolly Sods Wilderness of Monongahela National Forest that led us to the low tumbling falls of Red Creek and through flowering forests and wide-open meadows. The verdancy of the region was a welcome change from the desert landscapes of the mountain west, and I was thrilled to soak my feet in clear flowing streams and listen to the harmonies of nature.

The 311-mile Allegheny Trail celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2024, and we couldn’t resist packing up our camping gear to spend a night in a shelter along the trail, especially since there are no permits, fees or reservations required. The state’s longest trail also zig-zags through the towns of Thomas and Davis and surrounding parks.

Canaan Valley Resort State Park features plenty of shaded dirt paths, too, which we explored via two wheels instead of two feet. We’re both intermediate mountain bikers, but the beginner-friendly Promised Land trail offered plenty of relaxed fun on uncrowded paths. (Trail options abound for newbie and advanced riders alike.) Bring your own bikes and the ride is free, or rent a bike from Blackwater Bikes in Davis, a shop that also hosts free weekly group mountain bike rides in the summer.

Small town splendor 

In between hiking, biking and chasing waterfalls, we drove the short distance between the small towns of Thomas and Davis, quiet but warm places where art is celebrated, nature is life, and we felt invited to slow to the region’s relaxed pace.

In Thomas, we strolled down the historic main street where shop owners welcomed us into colorful storefronts at Ranger Jane’s toy store, Bloom gallery with art that ranged from inspiring to quirky, and upbeat TipTop cafe where we savored good coffee and delicious but reasonably priced baked goods. In the evenings, we joined an eclectic mix of locals and travelers at the Purple Fiddle to sway to the beat of a live folk band and nosh on food and drinks that mostly cost under $10.

Just a few miles away in Davis, we found yet another central avenue full of its own character and diversion, bespattered with more galleries, metaphysical stores, health shops and The Davis Depot, a colorful souvenir and outdoor store. It’s also home to Milo’s, where we basked in the sun on the patio with menu options like soup, salad and sandwiches that were $12 or less at lunchtime.

By the time we had to leave the region, we felt rested, relaxed and rejuvenated by the flavor of small-town leisure and hours spent in nature, content to have finally explored
a region we had so long ignored. Was it heaven? Close enough.

Where to sleep

There are plenty of nature-adjacent accommodations whether you plan to stay for one night or ten. 

Camping at Blackwater Falls State Park or Canaan Valley Resort State Park

Davis, West Virginia

An electric campsite at both parks starts at $50 per night while primitive campsites at Canaan Valley are $25.

Blackwater Falls Lodge

Davis, West Virginia

Rates for the simple but comfortable rooms in this historic lodge and vary by season from under $125 to more than $250.