Unexpectedly Santa Barbara

I love arriving at a destination at night, when you can’t really see much but you can start to feel its secrets, tantalizingly close. You go to bed and wake fresh, primed for exploration and discoveries. When I awoke in my hotel room in Santa Barbara, the air was filled with promise as fingers of bright California sunshine streamed through the gap in the curtains and summer coastal breezes blew through the open window, tinged with the captivating scent of salty air.

I was immediately glad I was staying downtown, as this compact Southern California city (a mere hour-and-a-half drive from LA) is easily walkable and bikeable. I was giddy to explore further, as this was my first time visiting the city, which was established as a Spanish mission in the 1700s.

Santa Barbara offers an enviable combination of outdoor pursuits with luxury accommodations and exquisite food and wine options—all with unparalleled views. What more could I ask for?

Cruising through elegance

My first activity: cycle the 4.5-mile-long coastal Cabrillo Bike Path on a comfortable cruiser bicycle. The paved trail runs along the waterfront, past the harbor filled with yachts and across the street from a panoply of gourmet restaurants. Next comes East Beach and an area of classic hotels and homes blending Mediterranean influences with modern stylings.

A highlight is the opulent 21,000-plus-square-foot Bellosguardo mansion, which sits on a bluff overlooking the coast. Once owned by copper heiress Huguette Clark, this 18th-century French-style manse began offering tours to the public in 2023, after lying unoccupied for nearly 70 years after Clark moved to Manhattan and never returned.

After a refreshing bike ride, I headed to lunch at the Boathouse on Hendry’s Beach. Bathed in sunshine, the restaurant was alive with people sipping wine and noshing on fresh seafood. To start, I had the best calamari in my life—no exaggeration—which came served with fried onions, jalapeños and chipotle aioli. The sesame-seared tuna, served on a bed of island slaw with wonton crisps, sesame-soy ginger dressing and wasabi aioli, was excellent, too.

Adventure meets refinement

Next up on the adventure menu: a trip to the wharf for some parasailing, which I always find to be a Zen-like experience. This time I was joined by a local friend, who rode next to me on the tandem flight. I was completely content high above the tow boat, taking in stunning views of the Santa Ynez Mountains to the east, with the city splayed out before me, and blue-green water rolling all around me. I could even see Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa islands in Channel Islands National Park, 25 miles away.

Flush from parasailing, my friend and I headed to Deep Sea Tasting Room for a wine tasting. We relaxed on a second-story deck overlooking the city and mountains while sipping a truly magnificent shiraz.

The next morning, I fueled up with a fresh ham and melted Gruyère croissant sandwich at Handlebar Coffee Roasters, which is right across the street from El Presidio de Santa Barbara, a historic park containing a Spanish fort from 1782. Then I headed over to Cal Coast Adventures for a mountain-bike adventure, setting out with a guide to cruise some great coastal trails in the 230-acre Ellwood Mesa Open Space & Sperling Preserve, which includes the 78-acre Monarch Butterfly Grove.

The trails are relatively flat with some stops right on the edge of ocean-facing cliffs, affording invigorating salty sea breezes. My guide and I then decided to hit Elings Park, the largest community-supported nonprofit public park in America. The 603-foot climb was a great workout with an initial payout of beautiful views of Santa Barbara, the ocean and the Channel Islands. The second payout was, of course, getting to ride down.

Kayak sunsets and mezcal cocktails

After returning my mountain bike, I went right to the harbor for a sunset kayak tour with Santa Barbara Adventure Co. Under sunny skies and with only the lightest of winds, our guide led our small tour group as we paddled among the moored sailboats, yachts and catamarans. We then cruised along the breakwater, passing sea lions dozing in the sun, to glide under the wharf itself.

There, between the pilings, our guide pointed out sea urchins and other wildlife while a seal occasionally bobbed up out of the water to check us out. As the sun began its glorious descent to the horizon, we were in open water for the panoramic view. A nearby buoy covered in seals bedding down for the night offered one last reminder of the rich diversity of wildlife here.

After such an active day, another grand meal was certainly in order, and the city once again delivered. I met another friend for dinner at Flor De Maiz, which serves upscale Mexican cuisine. Here, I savored Camarones Grantinados (a delicious skillet-baked composition of shrimp, cheese and heavy cream mushrooms) washed down with a Tributo mezcal cocktail and toasted the perfect end to another day of Santa Barbara’s enlightening surprises.

Top stays

The AAA Four Diamond Ritz-Carlton Bacara, a 78-acre property overlooking the Pacific, offers guests two tranquil beaches, three infinity-edge pools, a 42,000-square-foot spa and a host of dining options. The luxury guestrooms have a private patio or balcony with views of the ocean, gardens or mountains.

El Encanto features 93 bungalows and suites on seven acres of historic gardens with views over the city. The landmark property opened in 1918 and has welcomed the likes of Clark Gable, Hedy Lamarr and Carole Lombard. Don’t miss the zero-edge pool.

The 121-guestroom Spanish Colonial Revival Hotel Californian, located downtown, features paseos, gardens, fountains, courtyards and a rooftop pool with a wraparound deck. Dining options range from high-end to a Mediterranean-influenced cafe with grab-and-go options.