3 Reasons to Cruise the Mediterranean During the ‘Quiet Season’

Rays of light bathed the Roman city of Civitavecchia in a rosy glow as the Viking Saturn pulled away from the ancient port. In the distance, the Cathedral of St. Francis of Assisi shone like a jewel.

It was late afternoon on December 30, and to commemorate their golden anniversary, my dad and stepmom had flown me, my husband and our two adult children across the Atlantic for a Mediterranean cruise.

My multigenerational family has cruised together ever since my daughters were young. But when my children were in school, we would travel during summer or their winter and spring breaks when, unfortunately, most destinations are crowded. Now that my children are in their 20s, we have more flexibility.

My parents had booked an eight-day Mediterranean cruise from Rome to
Barcelona during what Viking calls the region’s “Quiet Season” (October to mid-March), when crowds thin, temperatures dip and prices drop. At first, I worried the weather would be cold, but I was relieved to learn that temperatures in the coastal Mediterranean range from the low 50s to mid-60s in late December and early January. Other incentives were Viking’s offer of stateroom upgrades and discounted airfare.

On the first day, we docked at the Port of Livorno, the gateway to Tuscany. We had selected an excursion that would take us to the ancient hill town of San Gimignano, followed by lunch at a vineyard. On the 90-minute bus ride, I gazed at the emerald valleys and silver olive groves, thinking, even in winter, Tuscany is picture-perfect.

San Gimignano, with a historic center that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is known for its skyline of medieval towers. I imagined that the maze of narrow streets would be hard to traverse if they were swarming with tourists, but today, it was mostly locals walking through town. Some were browsing the after-Christmas leather sales, just as I was doing on this sunny morning.

Members of our tour group were the sole guests at Fattoria San Donato Vineyard that day, savoring a lunch spread of handmade salami and bruschetta accompanied by homemade olive oil. Our host, Umberto Fenzi, regaled us with tales of San Gimignano’s esteemed white wines, which, as poet Dante Alighieri wrote in The Divine Comedy, were the personal favorite of Pope Martin IV.

“This is holy wine,” Fenzi jokingly said, pouring us a glass. “Drink too much, and you’ll start to see God.”

Our ship remained in port overnight, and the next day, we embarked on our own private tour of Cinque Terre, a series of five fishing villages built along the Ligurian coast. The temperature hovered in the upper 60s. With shore birds soaring overhead, children played in the sand while their parents spread out picnic blankets.

Cinque Terre’s post-Christmas season was peaceful, and we were free to wander the steep roads lined with colorful homes. We found no waits at the restaurants in Monterosso al Mare, a town acclaimed for its pesto pasta. I still dream about that creamy basil sauce at Ristorante Il Moretto.

Two days in, and already we were sold on the benefits of Quiet Season cruising. Not only had cruise prices dropped, but the destinations and people themselves seemed more welcoming. There were fewer tourists at key attractions. The restaurants had plenty of seating. And shopkeepers had time to chat with us. We could easily navigate the streets and find local guides leading smaller groups.

Delightful experiences by design

Our ship, too, was a selling point. Launched in June 2023, the Viking Saturn was designed for hygge (pronounced hoo-gah), a Scandinavian concept referring to warmth, comfort and contentment. Cold and wind were no bother, as a retractable, multistory glass roof stretches over the entertainment deck, enclosing a heated pool, a hot tub and seating areas nestled into nooks and crannies. Here, we gathered to dine and read, observing the coastal villages stacked like teeth upon the dramatic cliffs.

One afternoon, I met my dad and stepmom in the Wintergarden, a glass-domed lounge adorned with a lattice canopy of mythological Nordic wooden trees. Snuggled within this serene sanctuary, we shared a pot of tea.

Our family’s favorite spot was the two-story Explorers’ Lounge, an indoor observation space on one of the highest decks facing the bow. It was here where we gathered for our morning lattes and pre-dinner drinks, eventually befriending the talented baristas and mixologists.

To combat my jet lag, I took a few yoga classes and soaked in the steamy mineral pool at the Nordic Spa. No space ever felt crowded, even though our cruise was close to its capacity of 930 passengers.

Meals were always a festive event, with a wide variety of options. In addition to the main dining room, my kids adored Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant, one of two specialty restaurants, where the meal began with a bountiful breadbasket. We celebrated my parents’ anniversary by dining on the multicourse tasting menu at The Chef’s Table dining room, treating them to a bottle of Veuve Clicquot, the same champagne they shared at their wedding 50 years ago.

The best night was New Year’s Eve, when the Viking staff served a lavish poolside feast of lobster tail and oysters Rockefeller. The theme was Dancing Under the Stars, with musician King Stephen Feraro playing timeless tunes from the 1960s and 1970s. Much to my kids’ amusement, their spry grandparents got up and showed off their dance moves.

Travelers Are Welcome

When we docked in Villefranche-sur-Mer on the French Riviera, the rest of my family boarded an excursion bus to visit Monaco and see the Monte Carlo Casino. I chose a guided excursion to Galimard in Grasse, France, one of the country’s oldest perfume makers. The factory began making perfumes in 1747, soon supplying fragrances to the Court of Louis XV.

Transfixed by the factory’s floral aroma, I listened as Veronica Reboul, a perfume historian, explained the region’s role in the industry. “The Cote d’Azur is known as the land of perfumes,” she said. “The climate is ideal for growing flowers throughout the year. Even now, you’ll see the blooming mimosa and violets used to produce our fragrances.”

From there, my tour went to Saint-Paul de Vence, a transcendent mountain town with a thousand-year history. The winding cobblestone streets were bathed in buttery hues, and it was easy to understand why artists like Matisse, Picasso and Chagall found inspiration here.

The final day in Avignon was bittersweet, but we were excited to explore the Palace of the Popes, an architectural masterpiece where seven popes resided during the 14th century. 

Before heading back to the ship, my family strolled through town, following the smoky bouquet of steak frites to a bistro-style lunch. Afterward, we shopped at the boutique Maison 123, where the storeowner helped one of my daughters and me to select our now-favorite clothes.

When we got home, my daughters couldn’t stop raving about the beautiful ship, amazing meals and friendly people we had encountered. “When can we go on another cruise?” they prodded us.

I saw that AAA was offering cruises to Greece and Croatia in April when we wouldn’t have to elbow visitors at the Game of Thrones filming sites in Dubrovnik. Or maybe an Alaskan cruise in late September to see the brilliant fall foliage and perhaps the northern lights. I think off season has now become our favorite time to cruise.